After a year of glutting on Korean dramas, one of the things
I’ve gotten used to is how differently food is perceived there. My country is full of food-porny entertainments: there are multiple 24-hour TV
channels devoted to food, and every bookstore is full to the rafters with
glossy, gorgeously photographed cookbooks and culinary magazines. But when it
comes to storytelling, food is largely on the back burner here. It’s literally
possible to watch entire seasons of a American television shows without ever
seeing a character eat a full meal.
In Korea, it’s a different story. Sure, foodie-specific
shows like Kimchi Family dwell on
eating. But good luck finding a single episode of any show—from family melodramas to action adventures to
trendy romantic comedies—that doesn’t feature at least one dinner-table
conversation.
The whole attitude toward food in Korea dramas is completely
different from what I see everyday at home—here, eating is a complicated
love-hate experience for most people, a reductive game of “I can’t eat that
because it has nitrates” or “I only eat locally sourced, fair-trade organic
ketchup.” Instead of loving food, we live in a culture that has taught us to
fear it, and maybe even turned it into Frankenfoods that we really should fear.
On the other hand, in a Korean dramas, “eating well” is a
compliment. People say things like “eat lots!” (and seem to genuinely mean it).
Food is praised for its health benefits, and a sign of true love is harping the
object of your affection about the evils of skipping meals. At the end of the
day, when an American television show might feature a pint of Ben and Jerry’s,
good little Korean daughters-in-law cut up platters of fruit to be shared by
the whole family.
Maybe it’s because food insecurity is a more endemic and recent (or
current) concern in much of Asia. Maybe it’s because the earthly, identifiable
ingredients used in traditional Asian medicine predispose Asian cultures to see
food for its curative properties. For whatever reason, it’s clear that Korea is
in the throes of a serious love affair with food—long may it last, in spite of
the terrors of Western eating habits, globalization, and Kentucky Fried
Chicken, Dunkin’ Donuts, and TGI Friday’s.
As someone who once had to call her mother for advice about
how to make the kind of crescent rolls sold in tubes at the grocery store, I
don’t have a lot to offer as a blogger on this front. I don’t cook much
that requires more than three or four ingredients, and the full gamut of my
experience with Korean food involves about ten trips to the local Korean
restaurant. (All very yummy, might I add.) What I do have, however, are mad Google
skills and a desire to understand just those Kdrama folks are eating. So I give
you a brief collection of foodie links, all inspired by memorable dishes I’ve
seen in Korean dramas.
Black Bean Noodles (jjajangmyun)
As seen Coffee Prince (and every other drama ever)
In spite of looking outrageously gross, this is
probably the Kdrama staple I’d most like to try. I’m told that it’s gooey,
salty, noodley goodness, which sounds like my dream dish.
Read more at:
Live octopus (Sannakji)
As seen in My Lovely Sam Soon
Go figure, but this dish hasn’t come up much in my drama
watching. But even six years after the first time I watched My Lovely Sam
Soon, I couldn’t quite forget it. The octopus isn’t actually alive—just wiggly thanks to a nervous system on the fritz. (The first link below includes a related video that made me want to die, quite frankly.) And lest any Westerner get too grossed out by this, may I remind you that we traditionally eat something that really is alive? Raw oysters are actually considered inedible if they’re dead. (As a good New Englander, I personally prefer my oysters in chowder...or maybe as crackers.)
Read more at:
Shaved Ice (Patbingsu)
As seen in Coffee Prince
This reminds me of the Snoopy snow cone doghouse of my
childhood, only on crack. It’s full of random ingredients ranging from
condensed milk to fruit cocktail to beans. I’m not a big fan of
sweets, but I’d go there.
Read more at:
Seaweed Rice Rolls (kimbap)
As seen in City Hunter (and
every drama ever)
Greatest Love was one
of the first Korean dramas I watched, and my mind was slightly blown by the
scene in which the heroine sat on her living room floor, casually making the
kimbap she’d bring to work for lunch the next day. My instant,
I’m-so-stupid-it-hurts response: “She’s making that like it’s no big deal, like
it’s a peanut butter sandwich or something.” Which, of course, it is—to her. I
once went to a sushi making party with some American friends, and it involved a
lot of torn seaweed and the eventual eating of rice out of bowls (with spoons).
But to someone from Korea, making this standard lunch item probably really is like me making
peanut butter and jelly: so familiar it involves more muscle memory than actual
thought.
Read more at:
Kimchi
As seen in…every drama ever. Literally.
Clearly, kimchi is the equivalent of the male lead in
Korea’s love affair with food. A traditional dish eaten three meals a day, it
still seems to be primarily made at home. (If dramas are anything to judge by,
anyway—I can only think of one instance when a sad little drama character said
his mom had the audacity to buy kimchi
instead of make it herself.)
I’m a wuss when it comes to spicy food, so I’ve only had
kimchi once or twice. Dramas like Kimchi Family have made me want to change that, though.
Read more at:
Spicy rice cakes (dukbokie)
As seen in Baby-Face Beauty (and every other drama ever)
This was one of the first kdrama dishes that I really took
notice of—at least partially because I couldn’t figure out what the heck it
was. In America, rice cakes are utterly flavorless dried pucks of puffed rice
people eat when they’re dieting, and look absolutely nothing like dukbokie. At
first I thought something was mistranslated and the characters were actually
eating squid, which is something of a dead wringer for the cylindrical rods of
jiggly rice cake usually shown in this dish.
When I finally tried dukbokie myself I liked the chewy rice
cakes a lot, but the sauce was so spicy it made smoke come out of my ears, cartoon-style. The world is
apparently full of people who like this sensation, but I’m not one of them.
Read more at:
Spicy Chicken Feet (dalk bal)
As seen in Coffee Prince (and every other drama ever)
Call me faint of heart, but I know where those feet have
been. Why would I ever want to put them in my mouth? And did I mention that
they’re so hot people usually wear plastic gloves before even touching them?
Yet…why did some Westerner decide a thousand years ago that
we don’t eat chicken feet? Or fish with heads still attached? Or larvae? (Okay.
Whoever decided that last one is cool with me.)
Read more at: